John Gimlette's Voyages

The Chinese arrive on the Wild Coast

Chinese Store

Across the Guianas, there have been Chinese immigrants since the 1830s. They were orginally brought in as labourers (or Coolies), and even today in Guyana they make up 0.2% of the population.

It's been a curious relationship with the locals. In French Guiana,

A long-lost outpost of Jamaica

Costa Rica's easterly province, Talamanca

For years, it was hard to get to Costa Rica's easterly province, Talamanca. Along its long, sandy, coconutted shore, there are few villages. Before the road came, the only people who’d lived here were BríBri Indians and a few turtle-hunters, who’d wandered over from Jamaica many generations ago. Caught between the jungle and riptides, most people had settled down to a life of ease.

Castellani House

Castellani House

The home of a self-styled African king, in South America. This is Castellani House, in Georgetown (Guyana). For many years, it was the presidential home of a man who called himself 'the kubaka' (a Bugandan term, denoting royal status). He was Linden Forbes Sampson Burnham.

A life of song and frogs

Benedictine monastery near Bartica, Guyana

Sadly, I am told that the Benedictine monastery near Bartica (Guyana) has now closed. A few years ago, it was a memorable stay.

Before long, I was part of the clockwork of monastery life. There were only two brothers, Pascal and Matthias, and an elderly abbot called Hildebrand (see photo).

Hotels you'll never forget

The Amanjiwo, Borobudur hotel in Java

Hotels you'll never forget, good or bad. Here are five of my favourites:

1. The Amanjiwo, Borobudur (see photo). I stayed here whilst doing an article on Java for The Daily Telegraph. It was probably the most luxurious billet I've ever been given. This room had its own pool, and all sorts of gizmos. There was ever a set of watercolours in case the mood took you.

The history of the Wild Coast in ten objects - 10

Pontoon bridge over the Demerara River

You might think it odd to describe a bridge as an object. However, the pontoon bridge over the Demerara River (Guyana) is just than: a moveable, detachable thing. In fact, it's said to be the longest pontoon bridge in the world.

The history of the Wild Coast in ten objects - 9

Huge guy positioned at the mouth of the Suriname River

This huge gun is all that remains of 'American Guiana'. By mid-1940, the USA was worried. After years of neutrality, Americans now found themselves being drawn into a new world conflict. Apart from Britain, Europe was almost entirely under Nazi control. Worse, in the Caribbean, Europe’s old colonies were looking decidedly vulnerable.

The history of the Wild Coast in ten objects - 8

Statue of Queen Victoria in front of the Law Courts in Georgetown, Guyana

Not much trace remains of the British Empire in Guyana - but there is this: a statue of Queen Victoria. Her rule broadly coincided with the abolition of slavery, and with one of the most prosperous periods in the region's history. That, of course, had much to do with the value of sugar, and British rule is not much celebrated these days.

The history of the Wild Coast in ten objects - 7

Ariane space rocket

This monstrous thing is the Ariane space rocket. It's an odd one to find on the Wild Coast, but it explains a lot.

With the final closure of the penal settlement in 1963, French Guiana took on a forlorn air. The economy was completely supported by France, and there seemed little future for the colony.

The history of the Wild Coast in ten objects - 6

Is this the shoe of one of those poisoned in Jonestown, Guyana

Is this the shoe of one of those poisoned in Jonestown (Guyana) in 1978? It could be. I took this picture on the exact spot where, on 18 November that year, over 900 people took (or were forced to take cyanide). Few women will have lost their shoes in this bit of jungle since then, so it could well be the wreckage of that terrible day.

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